Next morning the simple version continental breakfast – 2 pastries, jug of OJ, jug of coffee, no complex decisions to be made at the elaborate buffet. Ah the simple life. And here outside is the Market just getting going. This feels like real France at last, I buy tomatoes, cheese, brioche.
Now having descended to this town I need to climb back up to the route, so today is all climbing, hardly a downhill kilometre.
I have planned a route going steadily up the side of the valley, on a not too busy road (hopefully).
I liked Saint-Claude, it has character and the bustling market topped-off the good experience, I went spinning out of town feeling good.
I started steadily up the hill, felt I was going pretty well. Didn’t want to overdo it, after 20 minutes stopped for a rest.
But look how far I’ve got, in the diagram at the top of the sat-nav I am the little red dot bottom left – hardly started it seems.
There are ways to get up a hill like this without losing heart and collapsing wrecked at the side of the road. First thing is to switch off the sat-nav screen, forget about distance and time, just pedal slowly along in bottom gear. At about 4 miles an hour, just progress. But don’t think about progress. Think about something else, muse, the plot of a book, poems, current affairs, political developments, what’s the point of an energy price cap if it keeps going up (rather stretches the definition of “cap”), is white wine good with cheese? Is football better than rugby? Is Baseball better than cricket? What is that squeak coming from under the saddle?
One of these helpful little signs pops up every kilometre to tell you how far to the top and at what altitude you are.
Then at some point you will feel your head going, the weather is heating up, to about 25 today, you have put on plenty of sunscreen, but – dehydration. Don’t forget to drink water. When you stop thinking straight, stop, drink, eat something with sugar and salt in it – Chocolate chip cookies! From my bag of emergency rations, also some half-dried prunes from the market – so nice.
For most of the way the road is pretty much cut into the steep valley side, there is no room, a cliff on one side and a steep drop on the other – difficult to find a place to pee, there is nowhere to hide!
And when a bit of space apears they build a house there! Nice begonias in the window boxes.
This telegraph pole is sanded and varnished, lovely job, weatherproofing?
Maybe have a sneaky look at the satnav – ooh, over half way now. Take it steady,don’t push on or you’ll conk out. Actually it’s going well now, I’m in a rhythm and rather enjoying the scenery, rocks, flowers, quite a few butterflies, not many cars.
This one precedes me for a while, fluttering ahead then landing then fluttering again as I approach, it takes a few tries but eventually it stays still on this flower long enough for a blurry picture.
And then I reach the turn-off point, 2km from the top of the climb, but I need to turn off to re-join my off-road route. 11a.m. and I’ve done more than half the day’s climb. Not bad!
I celebrate with a little off-road shortcut, nearly come to grief because it’s so narrow and steep and I have to push the bike the whole 1k or so – so a bit pointless. But it gives my bum a rest.
And then I come across this delightful little place.I go in to find half a dozen ancient locals in discussion around a table – the local U3A perhaps? They all stop to look up as I enter, strangers obviously a rarity. The patron is on the wrong side of the bar intently poring over a laptop screen with a mate of his. He pops round to his proper place and asks my pleasure.
My favourite cafe refreshment on these trips is an iced glass of lemonade and a cup of coffee, it’s a kind of home-made red-bull. You often get a glass of Sprite with ice and lemon, but here they have bottles of lemonade made in Morteau, where I was a few days ago. Delicious lemonade, nothing like local produce….
The committee of elders leave in ones and twos, this chap looks at my bike for a while, I tell him about my tour, he is unimpressed, gives it the Gallic Shrug and moves off creakily.
From my outdoor seat I have a view of a local shepherdess at work.
As I leave the cafe in a state of dreamy love for rural France I pass this chap coming down with a wheelbarrow full of old tyres. Up in the village I realise that I have not got a picture of the cafe, so I descend and pass him again, going uphill with a wheelbarrow full of pallet pieces (kindling I expect), now, after taking the photo I ride past him for the third time, I expect he gave me the Gallic Shrug once more.
This is the village.
No doubt the farm of the shepherdess.
I’m coming out onto the plateau now.
A red kite keeps skimming above me, I try to take his photo but he’s too quick.
I’m wondering if a “Chalet Modele” is what they call the “Mairie”, (town hall), round here. “Solidarite, Progres”, instead of “Liberte, Egalite, Fraternite”. 1914.
Into the forest.
Lunch among the trees. Very quiet up here, the wind in the treetops and faint bird twitterings the only sounds.
And a really pleasant couple of hours meandering through the trees brings me to the “Relais Nordique”, a Ski lodge for Nordic Skiing, which is what they offer here in the winter. There are a couple of young guys who have done the “GTJ” route like me carrying their luggage and staying in hotels, they are going on to Geneva and other high-up swiss destinations, but on the road, not mountain biking. The place has locally brewed beer, they have micro-breweries here! Very nice too.