A bus out of town and then a walk of 26km. First along minor roads, almost no traffic, to Lautrec, which is, yes, where the family of Toulouse had their aristocratic base.

Now the 19km to Castres, along a route called “Chemin des droites d’homme”, not entirely sure why.

It was a pleasant walk along an old railway line, through gently rolling hills.

A dovecote on mushroom legs – to keep the rats out.

And we arrive at Castres. The automated check-in at the hotel wouldn’t work so we had a coffee and walked around town, and the canal, until the receptionist came on duty at 17:00. Nice meal at the local Mercure hotel – gazpacho with olive crumble and lemon zuzu sorbet, a mixture of fish in mussel sauce, then dessert – thin hard chocolate praline covered in light and dark chocolate mousse and ginger sorbet. A carafe of local wine. mmmm.

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