Three stages to today’s ride.

First a long ride up a very quiet hill, first along the gorge of the Allier, then up and up out of it, total climb about 900m over about 25km, after 13km along the side of the gorge. So lovely, such a deserted road, peace at last and steady push uphill all morning, sheer bliss.

A perfect litle suntrap for lunch.

Stage two was reached a short way after lunch, a wider road, but not too busy.

Bringing me to the top of the climb at 1,200m altitude, milk-cows on high pastures.

Then 15km downhill on this road, down and down, refreshing in a cool breeze.

Stage 3 is the strange town of Le Puy En Velay. I suppose it means The Peak in the Valley. The centr is all cobbled streets around the cathedral built on a rock outcrop. The streets are curiously deserted at 5pm on a Monday afternoon, a sense of hush pervades, most shops are closed. But I find a sunny seat in a square and warm-up a bit with a Cafe Viennoise.

An ugly building, mix of styles, 19C I guess. Another starting point for Compostella pilgrims, of whom I saw a few on my descent, struggling uphill with their backpacks.

About 8km to go now, outside the pedestrian cobbled area Le Puy is Sheer Traffic Hell. Relentless streams of traffic coming from every direction going in every direction. There is no escape.

Anyway, after battling through 8km of that, up hill and down dale, I get to this hotel built on a motorway junction. Well, it is a bed for the night. Tomorrow promises to be a nice sunny day and I have another big hill to go over – mostly in peaceful countryside I think …