A big day today, I willl get up into the mountains, 67km, 1,430m uphill. I will go from 300m to 1,100m altitude. I manage to get on the road by 9a.m.
The first 10k is all solid uphill, all on roads luckily so I can ride it. I skim Volvic, it seems a run-down place, I would have thought it more prosperous, since they can sell the water that just gushes from the hillsides.
On up through the woods and fields I make really good time. In some woods I came across a series of cages with whitish animals lying around, at first I thought they were pigs, then realised they were dogs, looked like hunting hounds but smaller, a little further on two men standing in a lay-by outside their respective SUVs haggling, I distinctly heard 400 Euros mentioned and saw one reach into his hip pocked, presumably for his wad, he had bought himself a doggy.
Just after there was a man marching down the near-deserted road, tracksuit top tucked into tracksuit trousers, wearing a covid mask, swinging his arms as he marched as fast as he could. I said “Bonjour” but he ignored me. Sometimes it’s nice to know that there are people in the world as barmy as oneself.

By midday I am up among the volcano craters.
Just to prove it
The route weaves up and down the wooded craters, these tracks are enjoyable, needing concentration to get up and down, the trick is finding the right line so that you don’t crash into roots or rocks and slither to a halt.
Tracks around the Puy de Dome

The biggest crater is the “Puy de Dome” and for the first time on the trip I meet walkers and a couple of bike riders. It’s not surprising I suppose that one place becomes famous and everyone goes there. But the woods around the other craters are just as nice to walk in and much less crowded.

For the first time on the trip I find significant numbers of sheep. Still nothing like Devon where you can’t throw a stick without hitting a sheep.
I am not sorry to leave behind the tourist trap of Puy de Dome.
The cows now have horns, and are a bit rangier than the stocky Charolais, still white though.

It’s a beautiful day and I become immersed in the task of riding, the concentration needed to keep flowing along the trails, the walks uphill, the skids and bumps down, I forget about everything else, muse on nothing, like doing an absorbing piece of work.

And reach my destination in good time without even meaning to. Orcival is a little village with a big church.
A job well done.